Vintage watch experience 古董手錶: March 2014

Saturday, March 29, 2014

Seiko 6217-8001

I have sold off one of my 6217-8001 a few days ago and I am fortunate enough to upgrade to a very good condition 6217 diver. These watches are hard to find and will have to be dependent on luck and connections in order to find them. I feel blessed !

Monday, March 24, 2014

Happy gathering

This evening, I have spent some time to reflect on my direction of vintage watch collection for 2014. I have started with the dress watch Grand Seiko as I was very impressed with its hi beat movements produced from the 1960s. From the dress watch hi beats, I next evolved to collect the divers high beat ( the 6159-7010) and the specials 6159-7001 and slowly almost all the range of the Seiko divers, with some in duplications.

Lately, I remebered that I used to own a pink gold cap Omega Seamaster in 1991 when I first graduated from University and I paid S$500 (1/4 of my pay) for the watch. However, the watch was returned to the shop as the black dial was reconditioned. From then on, I focussed my attention mainly to Rolex.

With the crazy prices especially for the vintage Rolex sports models, my attention therefore has shifted to look for watches that are still values for money ( example the Grand Seiko, the Seiko divers etc which are extremely hard to find in good condition.) You can always buy a Rolex Daytona when you have the cash but you may not be able to find a Seiko 6159-7001 hi beat divers even if you have the cash.

After getting the Seiko 6159-7001 and the 6159-7010, and the 62Mas, my drive for more Seiko divers started to diminished leading to my switch to the understated Omega Constellation, which was the highest grade Omega at that time. The Omega 300, 120, Spedmaster prices have all been escalated owing to the popularity of sports watches and these dress watches were very often neglected, which is a good thing as the are still bargains to pick..... Enjoy!

Just send my watches for servicing..

Vintage Omega constellation black dial

I didn't realized Mr. Wong stayed so close to my apartment and since we are so close by, I have deuces to visit Mr. Wong. Henshowed me this rare solid gold pie pan black dial this evening and allowed me to trade in my vintage Longines, Milus etc for this lovely vintage Omega constellation with cash top up. As this black dial is very rare (as they are many reconditioned dial), this is too good an offer to miss.

Hope to find the platinum Constellation with diamonds markers one day...

Sunday, March 23, 2014

Vintage Omega Seamaster & Constellation chronometer

I continue my hunt for vintage Omega today. Since there are too may Omega watches (seamaster, Deville, Speedmaster, Constellation, Dynamic etc, I have decided to focus mainly on the Omega Constellation (which is the highest grade) chronometer series. The exception is the Omega Seamaster With chronometer certification.

For a watch to earn the title of "chronometer", the movement has to pass a very strict battery of test under very strict control at the most renowned official testing organization, the C.O.S.C (Controle Officiel Suisse des Chronometres). The testing last for 15 consecutive days. For the first ten days, the movements are tested in five positions at 20 degrees Centigrade. Three of the positions are vertical: 3 o'clock left, 3 o'clock up, and 3 o'clock down. Two test are horizontal: dial up and dial down.

After that, the movement is left in the horizontal, dial up position, and the temperature is lowered to 4 degrees Celsius for one day. Then it is raised back to 20 degrees Celsius for one day. Then the temperature is increased to 36 degrees Celsius. For the last two days of the test, the movement is moved back to vertical 3 o'clock left position and the temperature is lowered back to 20 degrees Celsius.

The timekeeping of the movement is recorded daily, and at the end of the 15 day test, calculations are made in six different areas. The different areas are: 1. mean daily rate in the different positions. 2. mean variation. 3. maximum variation. 4. greatest difference between the mean daily rate and any individual rate. 5. variation of rate per 1 degree Celsius. 6. resumption of rate.
The variances allowed are very small. The mean daily rate must be within -4 and +6 seconds per 24 hours.

I went to visit Mr.Wong, a part time watch dealer, who specializes in Omega vintage this afternoon and I have managed to trade my Hamilton military for vintage Omega with cash top up.

Omega constellation using Cal 561. 24 Jewels, timed 5 positions and temperature. 168.005

Cal 561是在551的基础上附加日期,为星座系列的专用COSC机芯.

Omega seamaster, with Chronomter using Cal 564

海马在60年代是低于星座的产品, 而且COSC检定是要出钱的.考虑定位和成本, 所以海马没有做COSC. 但也有例外,极少的海马,因为特殊原因, 用了COSC级别的564或561.表面也有COSC的书写

驰刹风云CAL.564. 代表OMEGA60--70年代的制表最高,也是最后的真正水平, 自厂设计生产, 玫瑰金色.

直径27.9MM/

厚度5.55MM/

动力储存48小时

19800的合理摆幅,

24钻.

拉跳日历.

鹅颈微调.

COSC级别多装配于星座系列.

Useful information to spot fake Constellation from the net:

Omega Constellation watches are chronometers with the movements being tested for 5 postitions and temperatures. It is usually marked on the movments.

The vintage chronometer movement calibers are as follows: 354, 504, 505, 551, 561, 564 and 751. The calibers 562 and 565 were NOT used in Constellations. They were used in Seamasters.

One thing to watch for, is, a 562 or 565, which states on the movement that it has been adjusted for 5 positions etc. It is a fake! Somebody took the Automatic rotor and train bridge from a 561/564 and slapped it onto a 562. I have seen Constellations running a cal 750. Such examples are also fakes regardless of what the Bestfit manuals state. Those manuals are designed only to find a substitute for hard-to-find parts.

Saturday, March 22, 2014

Seiko 6217-8001

In order to keep my one in and one out policy, I will need to let go some nice watches.. 6217 anyone?

Weekend watch gathering

This weekend, I have made appointment with my fellow Seiko watch collectors. Wearing one of my favorite 6105 to meet them... I love the 6105 that I have 4 of them from different years, 3 units of 6105-8110 and 6105-8119...,

Just sold one 6106 to make way for my Omega constellations ..,

Friday, March 21, 2014

Vintage Omega constellation black dial

I have just sold one spare Seiko 6105-8110 in order to make way for another Omega Constellation black dial. What is lovely about the watch is that it comes with the original box and papers. According to the seller, The watch was untouched and he bought from someone whose father got it from his work for retirement,but the father never wore watches so its literally been in the safe since the 60s.

Year. Movements cal

1943	28.10 RA PC, 30.10 RA PC, 330
1945	28.10 RA SC PC
1947	331
1949	332, 351
1950	343, 350, 352
1951	353
1953	344, 354, 355
1955	450, 455, 470, 471 (possibly 1956)
1956	490, 491, 500, 501, 502, 503
1957	504, 505
1959	550, 551, 552, 560, 561, 562, 570, 571
1960	590, 591, 592
1961	593
1963	660, 661, 670, 671,680, 681
1966	563, 564, 565, 710, 711
1967	712, 750, 751, 752
1968	672, 682
1969	980, 1000, 1001, 1002
1971	683, 684, 685, 1040
1972	1010, 1040
1973	1041

Eagerly waiting for it to arrive...

Vintage Omega Constellation cal 504

I must admit I have never been a collector of vintage Omega as my focus has always been for Rolex and this year Seiko. In 2006, I have collected a few vintage Omegas but I have streamlined my collection and sold all away except those with special dials.

Recently, I have a sudden urge to look for a good Vintage Omega that is representative of the watch. Following my research, I have realized that the Cal504 is quite rare as it is the earliest automatic with date. I have set myself a target of collecting a solid gold constellation, a steel & gold and a complete steel constellation using the rare cal 504.

Being a collector has its advantage as the watch connections can help to find..

Below is a sold gold Omega constellation with the rare pan pie dial in solid gold, and hours minutes and second hands also in solid gold. This is perhaps the most prestigious Omega watch during that time.