Wednesday, March 18, 2009

Revival of the Prince

The vintage Rolex Prince is finally making a comeback after years of under value..

Source: Watch Critics 03.2009 Vol 61

Tuesday, March 17, 2009


This is a Universal automatic rotation bezel stainless watch, Black dial, three hands, rotation bezel, signed Universal Automatic.
Stainless case, two crowns, stainless back, and diameter 42 mm X 47 mm.
Automatic movement, caliber 215-2, 28 jewels and signed Universal, Pat +329805+

Look at the unique small rotor that help wind the watch..An innovation during that time.

For those unfamiliar with this iconic watch, below is a bit of history (content largely borrowed from and some details regarding the watch.

The Story:

The airline SAS (Scandinavian Airline System) opened new routes over the North Pole in the 1950s to significantly shorten the flight time from California to Europe. The swiss watch manufacturerer Universal Genève was charged with providing the crews with automatic precision wrist-watches that provided resistance to the magnetic fields over the polar region. Universal Genève introduced a watch with the name "Polarouter" in fall 1954, which was created and designed by one of the most admired watchmakers of the 20th century, Gerald Genta (he later created the "Royal Oak" for Audemars Piguet and the "Nautilus" for Patek Philippe). The watch was re-named "Polerouter" soon thereafter and fitted with the famous calibre 215 "Microtor". Several other Polerouter models followed over the next twelve years, including the Polerouter Sub. During the 1950s/1960s, Polerouters were considered to be high-quality luxury watches – costing as much as a Rolex Explorer during the late 1950's.

The Movement:
In the early 1050s Universal Genève created (at the same time as the Buren Watch Company), a radically new automatic winding system: the Micorotor with its incorporated rotor mass. The first movement was introduced in 1955 and was called the Caliber 215. The rotor wound the mainspring in both directions, enabling more energy to be stored. The principal characteristics of this movement were as follws: 28.0 mm diameter, 4.1 mm height, 18,000 vibrations per hour, and 28 jewels. The 2-arm monometallic balance was protected by an Incabloc antishock system. The self-compensating flat Nivarox hairspring was blue coloured. The escape wheel was fitted with a Gyrocap shock-protection. The power reserve of 60 hours was exceptionally high (and remains so). The rotor was pink gold-plated, and the movement was decorated with a fine "Fausses cotes de Genève" decoration.

After a few additional iterations of this ground-breaking movement, UG finally released the most advanced of their microrotors – the cal. 69. The cal 69 is the movement in the example listed for sale. The movement features a more advanced winding system, and the rotor has been given a new shape. In addition, the movement was created such that it would not require as much lubrication as other movements. The cal. 69 is the last and most-advanced example of the classical micorotor UG movement.

Thursday, March 12, 2009

Secret code in a watch


由当时修理怀表的表匠Jonathan Dillon于1861年4月13日刻下的信息说,“桑特堡遭到叛军攻击”,但“感谢上帝,我们有政府”。


Tuesday, March 10, 2009

Vintage watches

Collecting vintage watches is really a joy as one can literally use the item everyday without much troubles.

Sports Watches

This evening, I took out my sports watches for spring cleaning. I must really find some time to learn how to take photos as the there are so much reflections.

Monday, March 09, 2009

Tudor Ranger 90330

I have tried to find out some more information on Tudor Ranger series and it seems that there are a few models (those with date and without dates)..

Sunday, March 08, 2009

Prince Oyster Prince Ranger - Ref 90220

The Tudor Oyster Prince ranger Ref 90220 looks like the Rolex 1016 except that the size is one size smaller. Price wise the Tudor Prince ranger is much cheaper making it a good value for money buy..

Please see:

Vintage Glashutte diver

This is the vintage Glashutte diver made in Germany. Case: chrome plated; diameter excl. crown approx 38mm; lug to lug approx. 46mm; lug wid...