Wednesday, October 31, 2018

Titus Calypsomatic

I have not bought any vintage watches these few months. Instead, I have decided to do some restoration work. 

This is my second Titus, which is supposed to be used as spare parts for my first Titus. The first was Lost In mail as the buyer has change his mind and return me via post but he has not sent via registered mail, which is a huge mistake.

After several months of searching for parts, I have managed to find the parts to restore the watch as below:


Following which, I have found another Titus and I have manage to trade my French diver watch plus some cash top up for another Titus Calypsomatic. I have restored the bezel and I am now waiting for the crown and winding stem to arrive next week to complete my restoration.


I have managed to find a NOS beads of rice bracelet for the Titus



Sunday, October 28, 2018

Olympia Orient weekly diver

I have been hunting for an Olympia Orient weekly diver for a while and I a month happy to find one. I am awaiting for the watch to arrive.







Saturday, October 06, 2018

Return of the Rolex Bubbleback

The Rolex bubbleback has started to regain its popularity with the escalation of the Rolex sports models. For  the early watch collectors, many will know the historical importance of the bubbleback as it was the first fully functional automatic movement in a waterproof case. The variations in dials and caae combination are more interesting that playing with the sports watch bezels, ghost bezels, long E etc, which are print variations owing to different OEM factories producing the bezel inserts.





Thursday, August 30, 2018

Grana military watch WW2

Grana WW2 German Army issued watch, c1940. The stainless-steel screw down case back is stamped with the German Army issue markings. The movement is the Kruth 321. The German issued version is larger, at approx. 34mm in diameter excluding the crown, than the issued ATP British version at 31mm in diameter excluding crown. Difficult to find in original condition and still relatively not expensive.

Friday, August 03, 2018

Chocolate dials

My favourite chocolate watches

Vintage People's Liberation Army watches

,
1964年上海牌開始研發軍用腕表,採用的是A641的機芯。因為當年周恩來總理對品牌的肯定,中國人民解放軍專門選定SS2軍用腕表作為潛水員和軍級以上各軍區工作所用的腕表。1969年,上海手表厂接中央军委委托,研制出114型军用手表,该系列分29钻SS2型和24钻SS4型。其中SS2型配发师级以上干部,SS4型则配发团级以上干部。

繼SS2之後,又研發了SS4軍用表,擴大到師、團級指揮官的工作所用之腕表。

From 1970 to 1976, Shanghai Watch Factory had produced about 30000 piece of SS4 24J automatic military watch for PLA commander.

参考资料:

  1969年,中央军委委托上海手表厂定型生产军表。该表采用上海手表厂29钻SS2和24钻SS4型单历自动机心,型号为114。当时手表是贵重商品,所以SS2型手表仅配发给部队师级以上干部使用;SS4型手表仅配发给部队团级干部使用。114军表当年供应价为人民币240元,部队干部分级别需要自己花钱购买。根据作者实物考证,在1967年到1969年之间是上海29钻SS2型军表小批量的试制阶段,没有量产(这一论断要早于一般普遍认为的1969年才开始生产29钻SS2型军表的记载,


有编号位:670170(1967年的第170只)和671027(1967年的第1027只)的上海29钻SS2型军表早期产品为证)。在1969到1970年是上海29钻防震防水防磁军用手表批量生产的阶段。1970年后生产的114军表是24钻军用潜水表。

Thursday, July 26, 2018

Vintage La Marque Skin diver

This is a vintage skin diver from the 1960s

IWC mark X

I have not worn the IWC mark X for a while. Since Tim was asking me some questions with regards to the Mark X, i have took the watch out from.the safe and decided to wear it for a couple of days.

Wednesday, July 25, 2018

Rolex bubbleback

After several months, my Rolex Bubbleback with salmom dial is finally fully restored. The long wait is due to the need to salvage parts from another vintage watch movement.

Went to Han Ming shop this afternoon and managed to get a vintage NOS Rolex Spring bracelet to match with the Rolex bubbleback.

Saturday, July 07, 2018

Spy watch

Israel’s Secret Operation to Recover the Watch of a Legendary Spy

Eli Cohen in Damascus, Syria, in the early 1960s, wearing the watch that was recovered in a secret operation and brought back to Israel.CreditIsrael Government Press Office

By Ronen Bergman

July 5, 2018

TEL AVIV — The news came in a brief announcement on Thursday from the Israeli prime minister’s office: a watch belonging to a legendary Israeli spy had been recovered in a secret operation and brought back to Israel.

The watch belonged to Eli Cohen, whose spying in Syria is credited with helping Israel to a quick victory in the 1967 war, long after he had been caught and executed by the Syrian government.

Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu praised the “determined and courageous action” of the Israeli spy agency, Mossad, for returning “a memory from a heroic fighter who contributed greatly to the security of the state.”

But the announcement was tantalizingly short on specifics, setting off a buzz across Israel. Mr. Cohen was a national hero, with streets and buildings named after him and ceremonies honoring his memory every year. But had the Mossad, as Mr. Netanyahu implied, carried out a secret operation to recover a wristwatch?

In part, yes.

The operation, according to an Israeli official with knowledge of it, was part of a broader 14-year hunt by the Mossad to find Mr. Cohen’s body, which 53 years after his execution in Damascus had never been located. The main goal was to recover the body and return it for a hero’s burial in Israel. But part of the operation was to recover any personal items belonging to the spy.

The spy agency has invested huge sums and resources in the larger quest, including endangering life and paying bribes to agents and crooks, Israeli intelligence officials said. Still, the body has not been found.

But during the search, the official said, Mossad agents located a man who had the watch and began an operation to obtain it.

Mr. Cohen’s mission in Syria in the early 1960s is perhaps the most fabled military and intelligence episode in Israel’s history, and is considered one of the Mossad’s greatest successes and failures ever.

Mr. Cohen, an Egyptian Jew, immigrated to Israel in 1957 and joined Israeli military intelligence in 1960. He was assigned to be an undercover agent posing as a wealthy Syrian business executive recently returned from Argentina.

He befriended top Syrian officials, whom he lured to his apartment with lavish parties where he dispensed free-flowing liquor and prostitutes. Over the years, he was able to provide the Mossad with extensive information on the Syrian order of battle, the location of fortifications, Syria’s relations with the Soviet Union, parliamentary gossip and power struggles within the leadership.

Under pressure from his handlers in Israel, and overconfident in his own cover story, he started broadcasting messages in Morse code on a near-daily basis using a telegraphic device he kept hidden at his home. But his transmitter caused interference with the radio used by the Syrian Army chief of staff command, which was across the street from his apartment, eventually leading to his capture.

He was arrested, interrogated, brutally tortured, tried, and sentenced to death. Israel did everything in its power to stop his execution, asking foreign diplomats to intervene and offering the Syrians a huge ransom to no avail.

The watch that belonged to Eli Cohen, whose spying in Syria is credited with helping Israel’s quick victory in the 1967 war.CreditAmos Ben Gershom/Israel Government Press Office

Mr. Cohen was hanged on May 19, 1965, at Marja Square at the center of Damascus, his body left swaying on the rope for hours as a grim warning.

Syrian authorities, apparently aware of the importance Israel has attached to the return of bodies of soldiers and officials, have since refused repeated Israeli requests to release the body.

The Mossad first proposed a plan to recover it in 2004, according to the agency’s former chief, Meir Dagan. However, that operation and a series of others since then have not turned up Mr. Cohen’s remains.

The Mossad did discover that the body had been removed from the Jewish cemetery in Damascus where it was initially buried, and transferred once or several times to other places, apparently in an effort to keep Israel off track. Some Israeli intelligence officials have concluded that even Syrian intelligence no longer knows where the Israeli spy is buried.

Two years ago, the current head of the Mossad, Yossi Cohen, ordered a renewed effort.

Trying to reach people who took part in the arrest, investigation, trial and execution, the Mossad learned that one person involved in the investigation had kept the watch, for some reason without the strap, and passed it on to someone close to him.

For the past 18 months, the Mossad has been conducting a complex operation in the heart of Damascus to obtain the watch from this man. The official did not explain how Mossad agents acquired the watch.

When the watch arrived in Israel, the Mossad carried out another operation to verify that this was indeed Mr. Cohen’s watch.

Mr. Cohen occasionally traveled to Europe, and from there to Israel to meet with his operators. He used to come back from these visits, like a wealthy business executive, with luxury goods. From one visit to Europe, he returned with an expensive Omega watch. The Mossad has found documents showing the watch was purchased in Switzerland.

Forensics experts, photo experts who examined pictures of Mr. Cohen with his watch, and other experts were recruited. Swiss archives and records were also examined. About three months ago, the experts concluded that this was the famous spy’s timepiece.

Mr. Cohen’s loss was a deep wound for the Mossad.

“We remember Eli Cohen and we do not forget his legacy, a legacy of devotion, determination, courage and love of the homeland is our heritage,” Mr. Cohen, the Mossad chief, said Thursday in a statement.

”Of the operational effort,” he added, “we managed to locate and bring to Israel the wristwatch of Eli Cohen, which he wore in Syria until the day he was caught, and was part of Eli’s operational character and part of his fictitious Arab identity.”

The watch was supposed to be handed over to the family soon, but Mr. Cohen’s widow, Nadia Cohen, hinted in an interview to Israeli military radio that she might prefer that it remain with the Mossad.

“The Mossad told us a few weeks ago that they got information on the watch and that it was about to be sold,” she said in the interview. “We do not know where, in which place, how, in which country, or how did they learn about it.”

The Israeli official, who spoke on condition of anonymity to discuss a sensitive topic, said the search for Mr. Cohen’s body would continue.

A version of this article appears in print on July 6, 2018, on Page A9 of the New York edition with the headline: Secret Operation to Recover the Watch of a Spy Sets Israel Abuzz.

Saturday, June 16, 2018

Vintage Glashutte diver cal 11-27

Owing to my love of history, I have collected a few of the Glashutte vintage watches mdae from the previous East Germany. There are a few models for the vintage Glashutte diver made in Germany. This model for me is the best looking Glashutte diver cal 11-27. 

It has a larger case: chrome plated; diameter excl. crown approx 38mm; lug to lug approx. 46mm; lug width 20mm. Vintage military diver wristwatch GUB Glashutte  with famous 22 jewels automatic Spezichron caliber 11-27, Only 72.000 movements of this type were produced in Germany in 1970s under the previously Eastern block GUB (Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe). The Glashutte company  was privatised to become Glashütte Original in 1994.


The Day Date movement was considered advance during the 1970s. The day indicator/disc is in German, it has never been made in English. The black dial and the bezel complete the look and making this the most attractive vintage Glashutte. Perhaps, one day the modern Glashutte "Original" will replicate this.












Talking about relaunching an old model, for a story on the Relaunch of the Glashutte , please see below:
  
https://monochrome-watches.com/glashutte-original-sixties-comparing-old-new/


For this story we have to travel back in time to 2007, when the German watch manufacture Glashütte-Original introduced a new model that was heavily inspired on a vintage model. It was more of a modern version of a vintage timepiece that was made during the GDR period (from 1949 to 1990 the eastern part of Germany was occupied Soviet forces), and it shared pretty much all of its looks right down to the smallest details; except now the materials used are of modern standards. We put them side by side… a vintage Glashütte Uhren Betrieb (GUB) hand-wound watch and a modern Glashütte-Original Sixties.
As a side note – that is certainly of some importance – I have to say that the vintage example is mine. I cannot recall the exact date of purchase, however it was early 2007, around the time when Glashütte-Original introduced the Senator Sixties at the 2007 Baselworld fair. When I bought it, I had no idea that the high-end watchmaker from Glashütte in Saxony, Germany, was about to launch a model that is not just inspired on, but almost a perfect modern iteration of the old watch. Today we’re going to review that new watch, and for history’s sake, we keep my vintage GUB next to it.
Glashutte Original Sixties
A bit of history
Glashütte Original as we know it today, was founded in 1994 by the privatization of VEB Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe , or short GUB. After the Russians took control over the Eastern part of Germany, shortly after World War II, GUB was formed in 1951 as an East German conglomerate comprising all watch companies based in Glashütte. Today Glashütte Original produces its own movements, and their watches are in the higher echelons of the watch market. Glashütte Original is currently owned by The Swatch Group.

Overview

Leaving my old GUB out of the equation, the Glashütte-Original Sixties (formerly known as Senator Sixties) is a charming, pleasantly priced, comfortably wearing, dress watch with a more than average nod to yesteryear. The Sixties indicates, as one might expect from a proper dress watch, hours, minutes and seconds. Time only thus. And with a diameter of only 39mm and a relatively slender profile of 9.4mm it also qualifies as thoroughbred dress watch. With these dimensions the Sixties also wears quite comfortably and while it’s not the biggest watch, it has quite some wrist presence. Maybe that’s due to the rather large, open and clean silver face with minimal writing on the dial. What it all comes down to, is that the GO Sixties is a very charming dress watch, with a very nice and reliable in-house movement, and a dose of interesting feats… let’s have a closer look!

Case and strap

The round 39mm 18K rose gold case measures 9.4mm thick, and part of its thickness is debted to the domed sapphire crystal. Although the domed crystal makes this watch thicker, it also resembles the domed plexi crystal of the old GUB. The lugs are more shaped than on the old GUB, however both the old and the new feature a quite thin bezel, leaving a large opening for the dial. The watch is water resistant to 30 meters, so not for swimming, showering or diving, however rain and washing hands should not harm the watch.
While 99% of all luxury watches with an alligator strap come on a alligator strap with large scales, GO opted for an alligator strap with small scales. Rather unusual, however I find it a much better fit on such a vintage inspired watch! The strap is closed by a tang buckle with the brand’s double-G logo engraved.

DIAL AND HANDS

The dial and hands are actually the parts of this watch that resembles the old GUB the most. Similarities go further than just the numbers 3, 6, 9 and 12. The dial is domed like on the old GUB, and the hands are baton style hands, and on both the old and new filled with luminescent material. The hour markers are applied stick markers and next to each hour marker is a small luminescent dot, for better legibility at night.
Glashütte-Original Sixtie
Several years ago, Glashütte-Original bought a dial making factory and now they are able to make their own dials. The result, besides more control over delivery times and quality, is that they can also play more with ‘funky’ colours and even patterns on the dial, like they did for the Sixties Iconic Collection (see here.)

MOVEMENT

Glashütte-Original’s in-house movement, calibre 39-52, is visible through a lovely ‘box’ sapphire crystal. This means that you can look through the side of the crystal as well, to observe the movement from various angles. On the down-side, the movement is quite a bit smaller than the case, and the movement holder (metal ring around the movement) is also clearly visible. Glashütte-Original used the ring not only to hold the movement in place, but also engraved with the word “automatic”. Altogether I think GO did something very nice and novel, with the box sapphire and I think it would not have worked very well with a larger movement.
Glashütte-Original Sixties
The movement finishing is really nice and features so-called Glashütte ribbing (the German equivalent of Côte de Genève) on the three-quarter plate, balance cock and skeletonized rotor. The latter features a 21k gold oscillator weight, for improved inertia, and is adorned with the Glashütte-Original double-G logo. The watch is regulated by a swan-neck fine adjustment.
The edges are bevelled and all steel parts are polished (by hand of course); even the rim of the balance is polished, and therefore looks much better than the average balance. The finishing is certainly on par with, if not above, most of its direct competitors in the same price range, and delivers outstanding value for money.
Calibre 39-52 only indicates time, by three central hands (hours, minutes and seconds), and has a power reserve of approx. 40 hours. This movement, part of the calibre 39 family, is a solid and reliable movement, which has been in production for a few decades.

Conclusion

In terms of styling, the Glashütte-Original Sixties is very close to my old GUB, and more importantly, it looks fabulous. Size-wise its more modern, with a 39mm diameter, and I’m happy that it’s not 40mm or more. In this rose gold execution the watch is a proper dress watch, although its ‘sixties style’ dial adds some flair to what could be a standard classic dress watch. The domed sapphire crystal in front, and the box sapphire as case-back also add a lot of flair, and that’s certainly something that will please those who like vintage dress watches, and want to enjoy it in a contemporary quality. It’s more water resistant than my old GUB, and probably better suited for daily wearing.
The Sixties also comes in 18K rose gold with a black dial, and in stainless steel with silver, black or blue dial. The price is very reasonable and starts at € 6.300 euro for the stainless steel models, and € 12.600 for both rose gold versions. Altogether a very charming watch, with great features that will certainly bring pleasure, and a very pleasant price point.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS – GLASHÜTTE-ORIGINAL SIXTIES

  • Case: 39mm diameter – 18k rose gold – domed sapphire crystal in front, box sapphire crystal in case-back – 30m water resistant
  • Movement: Calibre 39-52 in-house movement – self-winding – 40h power reserve – 25 jewels – 28,800vph – three centrals hands for hours, minutes and seconds – three-quarter plate with Glashütte ribbing – swan-neck fine adjustment – 18k gold oscillating weight
  • Strap: alligator leather strap with 18k rose gold pin buckle
  • Variations: 18k rose gold with black dial, and in stainless steel with silver, black or blue dial.
  • Price: € 6.300 EUR for the stainless steel version, and € 12.600 EUR for the 18k rose gold versions

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