Vintage watch experience

Happy new year

2012-01-23T03:12:00.001-03:00

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Location:Mayflower Pl,,Singapore

Happy New Year

2012-01-23T03:06:00.001-03:00

From

To

Wishing everyone a Happy Chinese New Year!

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Location:Mayflower Pl,,Singapore

Watches made for the Middle East markets

2012-01-21T05:17:00.001-03:00

Some of the watches made for the Middle East, exotic and interesting!

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Location:Gilstead Rd,,Singapore

Vintage Glashutte and German watches

2012-01-21T05:15:00.001-03:00

These are my small collection of vintage German watches which I have bought in Prague and Germany during my travel. Simple and yet elegant

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Location:Gilstead Rd,,Singapore

Rolex 81806

2012-01-21T03:30:00.001-03:00

There are some who question whether there is such a watch called Rolex 81806 Moonphase chronograph. From the net and auction sites, I can find the following records. Produced in 12 examples only, in the 1950's. A simIlar watch is published in 'A time to watch' by J. Zagoory and H. Chan, page 141. On the other hand, there are web discussion who has said that there is no such model.

For me, whether Rolex ever produces such a watch is not important as I am not a dealer. Moreover, unlike Patek Philippe who has records of their past watches, Rolex don't have a clear record of their history and is not interested in repairing and servicing of their vintage watches. Moreover, many of their service centers have poor knowledge of their vintage collection.

For me, the 81806 watch is an interesting watch as it represents a high level of complications (during the 1950s) even though it may not have been produced by Rolex. It is an interesting watch as it as a chronograph function, calendars and Moonphase functions. It's a nice after dinner talking piece! After all, watch collecting is a hobby to bring fun and joy. : ) have fun!

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Location:Gilstead Rd,,Singapore

Classic watches

2012-01-21T03:04:00.001-03:00

Even though the bigger watches and sports watches are in huge demand now, the classic watch continues to have its huge appeal..

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Location:Gilstead Rd,,Singapore

My favourite Moonphase watches

2012-01-21T03:00:00.001-03:00

These are my two favorite Moonphase watches, Rolex 8171 officially certified moonphase and the Patek Philippe 3940 perpetual calendar Moonphase.

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Location:Gilstead Rd,,Singapore

Nice sites

2012-01-20T13:59:00.001-03:00

http://www.interwatches.com/rolex-dials-history

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Collection of Moonphase

2012-01-19T10:18:00.001-03:00

I love the moon.

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Location:Gilstead Rd,,Singapore

Close up shots of Rolex 8171

2012-01-19T10:15:00.001-03:00

Just brought home the 8171 and took some close up shots of the 8171 : )

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Location:Gilstead Rd,,Singapore

Recycling old watches

2012-01-18T23:03:00.001-03:00

Saw this interesting logo. People who love vintage watches are really helping the Earth! Keep collecting !

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Location:Frankfurt,Germany

The search for Rolex 8171

2012-01-15T11:31:00.001-03:00

The 8171 was a failure in the 1950s as sales were poor and demand small. I have recently come across a nice vintage 1952 triple Calendars plus Moonphase 8171. The dial has aged evenly and has shown signs of aging, but the dial is all original.

In addition, a couple of weeks back, I have seen two 8171 in a shop, one solid gold with non original dial and one steel with reconditioned dial. Given the fact that the 8171 is a non oyster watch, many of the dials are either reconditioned or aged.

My preference is always on the need for original dial as the 1952 watch needs to have a 1952 dial and not a reconditioned 2011 dial. I have always dream of the 8171 and in the late 1980s, I was offered one but as a young undergraduate, I was unable to afford one. The 8171 is a Large watch at 38mm during the 1950s. In today's standard where larger watches are in the trend, the 8171 still find its relevant and is still a subject of great desire..

Luckily, life is full of hope and dream...

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Location:Florastrasse,Zurich,Switzerland

2012

2012-01-15T03:10:00.001-03:00

To those who are always worried about 2012....

Be happy!

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Location:Schiphol Boulevard,Schiphol,The Netherlands

Rolex Submariner with Red Arabic

2012-01-14T09:31:00.002-03:00

This is a Rolex 1680 with red arabic wording.

Collection of Rolex

2012-01-14T09:30:00.002-03:00

Collecting vintage watches can be an enjoyable hobby. However, it also means having to make sacrifices. For example, in order to collect vintage watches, I will have to forego many other things ( e.g taking bus in Hong Kong instead of getting a car to drive, no buying of fanciful clothes, no fanciful restaurants and simple dinners, etc). However, the joy of finding those precious watches are beyond words. For me, buying these vintage watches is also a form of "forced saving" as currencies tend to depreciate while vintage watches tends to appreciate in prices after several years owing to scarcity.

Very often, I do streamline my watch collection by changing the direction of collecting. One example is that I sold away my entire collection of vintage Omega (all kind of sea master, speed master, constellation, Dynamic, Omega Moonphase cosmic,) in order to focus on vintage Rolex. In addition, I have also sold away my vintage hifi gears, my vintage radio collection, and many collectables in order to collect watches.

After over 20 years of vintage watch collecting (since 1988) my watch numbers have not grown much. This is largely due to my one in one out policy. My current core collections are the Rolex bubblebacks, Prince, 6062, 8171, 6202, 5508, 1655, 1016, red 1680, gilt dial 5513, 6239, 6263, two Breguet type XX, some cloisonné dials watches, military ( jaeger lecoultre, Laco Pilot, Lemania).

Enjoy!

Rolex 8171

2012-01-14T09:29:00.000-03:00

I have started a new year with a 8171. Even though this 8171 has an aged dial, it has a very nice original look from the 1950s,,,

Comet & mystery dials

2012-01-10T03:49:00.001-03:00

The mystery watch has been popular during the 1950s where the watch makers attempt to have a new interpretation of time.

My red mystery dial arrived safely yesterday. I have two comet (yellow, blue) in leather straps and this red one is unique as it comes with a stainless steel bracelet. Now, the hunt is on for a dark blue comet...

Looking at the picture below, I should perhaps change the colour of the yellow Comet with bright yellow strap? Daring?

Besides the Longines Comet, there is also another type of mystery dial by the small Election watch company.

However, in my opinion, the prettiest looking mystery dial is the Jaeger Lecoultre + Vacheron Constantin mystery watch with diamonds markers.

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Location:Bangkok,Thailand

Rolex 8171

2012-01-06T02:47:00.001-03:00

Generally, the steel 8171 will have the word Precision at the subsidiary dial.

while the gold 8171 has the two lines wordings but i guess there are exceptions
as I have found several steel 8171 with two lines wording

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Vintage 1930s Jump hour watch

2012-01-02T11:06:00.000-03:00

This is a 1930s new old stock jump hour watch with special enemal design. This watch is an early attempt to produce a "digital" watch.

James Bond submariner

2012-01-02T00:42:00.001-03:00

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Rolex Explorer

2012-01-02T00:25:00.001-03:00

In the earlier days, the Explorer, being a technical watch, targeted the mountain climbers and true explorer..

Explorer 2 (also often known as the Orange hand)

The 1016 and Tudor Ranger looks similar..

Tudor Ranger

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Moon phase

2012-01-01T13:18:00.001-03:00

From the photo below, you can see a ether sad looking Moonphase. Perhaps, i should bring it home soon in order to bring some smile...

My dream watch...

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Vintage Longines Comet

2012-01-01T03:00:00.001-03:00

The longines comet was a short lived models from the 1970s. My guess is that owing to the popularity of the Japanese quartz and digital watches, mechanical watches have lost out in term of favours and trend.

The Longines comet for me is important as it shows an avant garde design from the 70s with the concept of mystery dial that is still relevant even when 30 years later. The design and bold use of colours are really head of its time!

From my earlier blog, I have mentioned that I have found the blue and yellow Longines Comet. Finally, I have managed to find the rare red comet from Canada. With the blue, yellow and red, I am waiting for the dark blue...

Happy New year everyone!

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Happy 2012

2012-01-01T02:53:00.001-03:00

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My vintage watch blog has been hijacked

2012-01-01T02:29:00.001-03:00

My vintage watch blog has been hijacked by another one as below!

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Rolex 8171

2011-12-25T10:37:00.001-03:00

It is my dream to own vintage Rolexes. But once you get into the vintage Rolex game, you end up yearning for something more and rare.

To Rolex collectors and connoisseurs, the pursuit of a complicated Rolex is ultimate goal. The reason is Rolex didn't really make that many complicated watches. Even today, if you want a complication, the best you can do is a chronograph. Rolex, therefore, is not a complicated watch company when compare with Patek Philippe who has perpetual calendars, minute repeaters, etc.

However, in the 1940s and 1950s they did entertain the idea. In 1942, they produced 12 examples of what would become the most expensive Rolex ever sold, the Ref 4113, a Split-Second Chronograph that sold in 2006 for about $600,000.

In 1949, Rolex released the Reference 8171, which was a triple date moonphase watch available in steel or yellow gold. Only about 1000 of these watches were ever made and they have become serious collectors items. The 8171 is also known as the Padellone ("Big Frying Pan" in Italian).

One of my Christmas wish lists is the 8171...come to me... Merry Christmas everyone!

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Merry Christmas 2011

2011-12-23T12:47:00.001-03:00

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Location:Princess Margaret Road Link,,Hong Kong

Patek 3433 on eBay (not mine)

2011-12-17T07:01:00.001-03:00

For those who wished to get a Patek 3433....

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Location:Προς Αφίξεις,Spata,Greece

Vintage Timex

2011-12-17T02:03:00.001-03:00

Greetings from greece !Went to the island and managed to find a 60s vintage Timex watch

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Location:Greece

Ottoman period pocket watch

2011-12-12T17:24:00.001-03:00

Greetings from Istanbul!

I have visited the Turkey's Grand bazaar this morning and found this early period hand wind pocket watch from the Ottoman empire in very good condition.The dial has the Ottoman language markers and wording making it a collectable watch. Instead of getting some usual tourists souvenirs, I have much preferred these vintage pocket watch that has some history and cultural values. The owner of the shop is a middle age man, and he is very friendly and helpful. My friend lock bought one too..

The are many pocket watches but many have damaged dials : (

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Location:Klodfarer Cd,Istanbul Province,Turkey

Vintage Angelus eyedropper

2011-12-11T15:33:00.001-03:00

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Location:Klodfarer Cd,Istanbul Province,Turkey

Collections

2011-12-10T15:01:00.001-03:00

Greetings from Istanbul..

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Location:Klodfarer Cd,Istanbul Province,Turkey

Vintage ladies

2011-12-09T02:48:00.001-03:00

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Most expensive Swatch

2011-12-09T02:47:00.001-03:00

The amazing creation of the Diaphane One is very special. Swatches are still considered a plastic watch with a low price tag, but Swatch this time clearly wanted to make a statement and show its heritage and its breed. In 2001 Swatch launched its 2222 Diaphane One watches for the ridiculous price of 3,333 euros! 222 pieces of this limited edition were decorated with rubies, diamonds and sapphires (the colours of the French flag) as a tribute to the new Swatch boutique on the Place Vendome – the only place where they were sold. This watch is an extravagant gimmick on the part of Nicolas Hayek, President of the Swatch Group and it was an immediate success! In Singapore, these special watch was only allocated to special pos who has supported the brand and only when they have achieved their high sales target.

The carousel movement moves inside the case what makes this watch so extremely special. The whole movement makes in one hour a full rotation.An astonishing display of the art of Swiss watchmaking, the new Diaphane One models are «skeleton» watches. Visible from both front and back, the revolving 25-ruby movement draws the connoisseur’s appreciative eye to its display of exquisitely crafted finishings and artfully intricate design. Neither a tourbillon nor a karussel, the mechanism assures the movement of all the elements on the watch face. The platform that serves as the base of the cage holds all the wheels of a traditional timekeeping movement, along with the escapement and the balance wheel. The revolving cage, which houses the wheel train and regulating organ of the watch, completes two full revolutions every hour, causing the balance wheel and the escapement to revolve like satellites around the centre of the watch. Like a comet that travels through space and time, the watch is in the process of perpetual change.

I have kept the leather strap and use an aluminum one for daily use..

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Mystery dial

2011-12-09T02:46:00.003-03:00

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West end watch

2011-12-09T02:46:00.001-03:00

This is a pair of new old stocks West End watches from the 1950s with special dial.

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Modern watches

2011-12-09T02:37:00.001-03:00

I seldom collect modern watches except the Graham tourbillon watch which has a automatic tourbillon with chronograph function, that can withstand all sports activities. Next is Elvis' watch, the Ventura which has a modern design even though the design inspiration is from the 50s.

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Vintage Moonphase & sun phase watches

2011-12-07T12:40:00.001-03:00

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Location:Buckley Rd,,Singapore

Doctor's watch

2011-12-06T13:46:00.001-03:00

After more then 20 years of collecting, my doctors' watch collection has grown slowly. These watches have been in the shadow for a long time as many collector prefers to keep bigger and sporty watches. These have been considered too classical and slim. Perhaps, only vintage watch love will appreciate such watches.

Rolex prince doctor's watch made for everywhere except the US

Gruen doctor's watch made for the US market

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Location:Buckley Rd,,Singapore

Patek Philippe president favourite watch

2011-12-04T04:31:00.001-03:00

If you want to know which model is Parek 's president favourite watch, you can see the photo below.

The answer is ref 3940

Why? To quote Mr Stern: this ref 3940 speaks to its wearer about a turning point, not merely in his own life but in the life of his company and his industry, a time when Patek Philippe defied convention and dared to be traditional'.

The 3940 is using the thin 240 movement when everyone said its impossible to do a perpetual calendar but he has proved them all wrong....

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Price of a Daytona dial

2011-12-04T04:07:00.001-03:00

This is the price of a Rolex Daytona dial, Us$10,500.. For those watch connoisseur..

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Patek perpetual calendar

2011-12-04T03:23:00.002-03:00

The 3 generations of PP 3940

2nd generation PP 3940

Comparison between the 3940 (discontinued) with 5140 (introduced in Basel 2006). Both 3940 and 5140 using the same movement except a facelift for the 5140 and a smll increase in size, but 20% more in pricing.

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Location:Princess Margaret Road Link,,Hong Kong

Daytona 6239

2011-12-03T12:31:00.001-03:00

Rolex 6239 together with a 5513 submariner with gilt dial.

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Daytona 16520 colour changed dial

2011-12-03T12:27:00.001-03:00

This is how a colour changed dial for the 16250 look like that occur on the T series. The 3 registers rings have changed from white to light brown (and some to darker brown depending on the aging process, I guess), making the 16520 a highly collectable watch similar to the explorer 2 ref 16550, where a certain period Explorer 2 white dial has changed to a cream dial owing to some dial manufacture defects.. In this instances, some defects are actually good as it appreciates the values of the watch instead of depreciate its values.

So, for those of you who want to keep a Daytona, you can either go for the first generation Ref 6239, or the second generation 6263, 6265 or the 3rd generation 16520 using the Zenith El primero movement. For the 3rd generation, always go for the black dial and the changed colour dial..there are some who love to collect the inverted "6" or collect the white enemal dial. The later 116520 Daytona using the Rolex own in house movement is valued at 50% of these 16520. Moreover, the steel is more collectable then the gold steel model even though the movement is similar.

The joy of collecting these beauty lies in its scarcity and the 緣分 to find..man cannot hold in to time, but can at least hold on to the watches. Enjoy!

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Location:Cheong Tung Rd S,,Hong Kong

Swiss auction

2011-12-03T12:11:00.002-03:00

Swiss auction in Hong Kong

Please see:

http://mob.watchprosite.com/show-forumpost.classic/fi-112/pi-4823543/ti-732848/s-0/

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Rolex Daytona

2011-12-02T10:45:00.004-03:00

My personal preference for vintage watches are the 1930s-40s bubbleback and the Prince series. The sports models were never really my target as during the late 1980s, these 1970s watches were not vintage or old enough. However, to please the "runners" and the people who bring us vintage watches, I have often have to take some of these unpopular watches such as the Daytonas, ubmariners and Gmts. These watches were not expensives as the average prices in the 1980s were between US$1000-1500 ( as these were steel watches, and the collectors then were all going after the 18k watches).

However, things have changed today as these sports series have suddenly become collectable and prices have escalated very quickly. I must really thank the buyers for firing me to takes these steel sports watches. Having just sent in the 6239 to the Rolex center, I am eatery waiting for the completion, hopefully before the Chinese New Year... : )

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Rolex daytona

2011-11-29T10:50:00.003-03:00

Three generations of Daytonas : ref 16520, 6263, 6239. I have just exchanged one of my vintage vintage Patek for a black dial Daytona 16520 from Taipei.

I used to have a white dial 16520 in 2002 but i have to let one of my friend have it as he was so persistent. After more then 10 years, I have finally found a black dial T series, which is even rarer then the white dial. The 6239 was from the 60-70s, while the 6263 was from the late 70s and the 16520 most probably from the 1988. The early Daytonas were not popular and I remember not many collectors were keen on these as during the 1980s, these were not vintage enough. Funny, how things can change so much.

During my Taiwan tip, I have also sent in one of my Rolex 6239 to the Rolex center for servicing. Hope I can receive it back before the Chinese New Year as these servicing takes up longer time...

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Rolex 16520 Daytona zenith movement (Patrizzi)

2011-11-28T12:02:00.002-03:00

This is a T series from the mid 90s. In Hong Kong, the Rolex daytona has been popularized by the Hkg show. Of the white dial and the black, the black is more in demand and commands a premium vis-a-vis the white dial.

Of all the black dial Daytona, some of the black dialed ref 16520 had been getting quite popular and their popularity reached an all time high when an Italian collector Osvaldo Patrizzi sold his Rolex collection in 2006. His collection included a 16520 black dialed daytona which had a brown discoloration in the subchapter rings. This discoloration from white to brown was seen in some versions of the mark IV dials and were subsequently called "Patrizzi Daytonas." The watch attracted a lot of attention and sold for more than twice the cost of most normal daytonas.

There is some discussion about the black dialed S, N, T and W serial Daytonas which from a manufacturing defect the color of the subdials faded to brown or chocolate colors. Its postulated that this color shift has happened due to ultraviolet ligth exposure and the materials used by Rolex at time. Similar to the cream dial 16550 Explorer 2, this T series Patrizzi Daytonas are highly collectable.

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Twin Gruen

2011-11-24T11:03:00.001-03:00

A comparison between the Alpina Gruen jump hour doctor's watch with the normal Gruen doctor's watch. Isn't the Doctor's watch lovely looking?

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Gruen Doctor's jump hour watch

2011-11-23T12:51:00.001-03:00

This is a much rarer Gruen doctor's watch jump hour. The jump hour can be seen as early attempt for the watch company to create a "digital" watch. I was offered a Rolex Prince jump hour in 1988 but I was unable to afford as I was still in university studying. After more then 22 years, I have finally found a jump hour ( even though it's only a Gruen) with original dial ...

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Gruen Doctor's watch

2011-11-23T12:35:00.001-03:00

There are two types of Gruen Doctor's watch, the jump hour type and the normal.

A. Jump hour

B. normal doctor's watch

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Gruen doctor watch

2011-11-23T12:24:00.001-03:00

This is a near mint white Gold filled Doctor's Watch circa 1925 with Original silver dial with black markings and original blued steel hands. Nickel 15 jewel movement. This watch is virtually identical to the Rolex Prince, and the same supplier made movements for both Gruen and Rolex. It comes with the original box and bucker. The side view is nice as its has special pattern running across the both sides of the watch, reflecting great details and creativity..

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The Four beauties

2011-11-19T09:15:00.001-03:00

In ancient Chinese, there were the Four beauties. In my home, there is also 4 beauties..haha smile! : )

I have sold off some of my favourite vintage hifi equipments to convert cast to get these beauties. I am glad as vintage watches will not occupy much space while those vintage speakers tended to occupy much of the space.

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Rolex Explorer 1 , ref 1016

2011-11-19T09:11:00.001-03:00

My Explorer 1 ..I have sent this 1016 to HK Rolex center for a change in the glass..

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Alpina Gruen doctor's watch

2011-11-19T05:10:00.001-03:00

I have always love the Doctor's watch and below are the Alpina Gruen doctor' s watch with the jump hour function. I have missed getting the Rolex jump hour in 1988 (couldn't afford it during my University days)...

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Location:Princess Margaret Road Link,,Hong Kong

Gruen watch company

2011-11-19T00:33:00.001-03:00

I am not sure if Gruen company still exits, but these are the information which I have found from the internet.

The watch that I like is the 1928: The Techni-Quadron "for exact time in seconds" aka the Doctor's watch. The “Doctor’s Watch” was distributed under the names of Alpina, Gruen, Alpina-Gruen and Rolex (“Prince”). But the infatuation had only a short duration.

The famous Techni-Quadron "doctor's watches" are so-called because the large seconds dial was handy for timing a patient's pulse. These were not sold only to doctors, however. The watch was advertised as a timepiece for technicians and "radio and mechanical engineers"—anyone who needed to measure time in seconds. The 877 movement, manufactured by Aegler in Biel, was also used in the Rolex Prince; this unusual movement gives the watch its distinctive "dual dial" design. Hours and minutes are confined to the upper half of the dial, while the entire lower dial is dedicated to seconds. The Techni-Quadron provided a useful alternative to the tiny seconds hands on most watches from this era, which can be as little as 2mm (one tenth of an inch) long, and are not practical to use for timing.

Below picture left is the Alpina Gruen, together with the Rolex Prince. After the start of the Depression, 1930 an arrangement was made with Alpina, with the production of a dual branded Alpina/Gruen watch.

Top photo: All Techni-Quadron models have a long case and a large seconds subdial, as large (or nearly as large) as the hour/minute portion of the dial. The "dual dial" layout is a distinctive feature of this line. This particular watch is slightly unusual—most have dials that are more functional and less ornate. Compare this dial to the catalog illustration below, which is more typical. (Photo courtesy of Jack Goldberg.)

The Techni-Quadron does not have the hour and minute hands attached at the center of the dial— as other watches do—on the contrary, these hands are attached above where the crown enters the case. The seconds are in their own subdial, which is symetrically placed outside of and below the hours/minutes portion of the dial. Because these watches are sought after by collectors, other models are often represented as Gruen "doctor's watches" when offered for sale.

The Techni-Quadrons were extremely accurate, and like other Quadron models, did well in European chronometer tests.

Some Techni-Quadron models originally came with "expanding buckles." These look nearly identical to modern deployant buckles, but their purpose was different. With the buckle closed and locked, the watch could be worn normally. However, if the buckle was unlatched, making the strap loose, the wearer could slide the watch up the arm until it fit snugly just above the elbow, keeping the hands and wrists free. A 1929 advertising photo shows a doctor wearing his watch this way. These buckles were available on metal mesh bracelets or leather straps. A smaller version of this buckle was offered for women.

Above: An illustration of a Techi-Quadron with an "expanding buckle" from the 1929 catalog. The buckle allows the watch to be worn either normally, or above the elbow, as shown in the photo.

After Gruen moved all production to the Precision Factory and stopped buying movements from Aegler, they made some dual-dial watches that are superficially similar to the Techni-Quadron, using modified versions of Gruen's calibre 500.

Gruen, Rolex and Aegler

One of the most deeply-held myths about Gruen is that Gruen and Rolex at one time manufactured movements for each other's watches. This is not true, although both firms did use some of the same movements—the best known examples are the Gruen Techi-Quadron and its twin, the Rolex Prince. In reality, these movements were manufactured by a third company, Aegler, who was a very close neighbor to the Gruen Precision Factory.

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Not for sale

2011-11-11T11:17:00.001-03:00

There are some who wrote to me asking to buy watches but I am not a dealer and my collection is not for sale. Hope you understand that I am more of a collector. : )

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Prices of PP 3940

2011-11-06T12:39:00.001-03:00

For those who is keen to find the discontinued PP 3940, the prices are below: good luck!

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Rolex Explorer 2 vintage1655

2011-11-03T13:31:00.002-03:00

I have often wonder why didn't I buy these collectable vintage watches when they were just launched?

After much thinking, I realised that when these watches were launched duing the early period, Iwill never be able to afford as I was still a student then.

Anyway, I ahve bought my Rolex 1655 cheap (around US$1000) in the late 1990s when these watches are not that collectable. My first servicing of the watch was done in Taiwan in the year 2002. and took the watch back for another service last year..Time flies..

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Object of desire

2011-11-03T13:24:00.001-03:00

This Beyer Pp looks really nice...

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Patek Philippe 3940 - discontinued model

2011-10-28T10:51:00.013-03:00

I really love the discontinued PP 3940.The best part of the pp3940 is that the watch is so slim 36mm diameter and yet it is able to have a grand complication of perpetual calender plus automatic movement and a power reserve of 48 hours from the 1980s. This is really one of the modern Classic now. In addition, it is a very comfortable daily us watch that rest very nicely on the wrist...like the vintage Rolex Prince..

To get this watch, I have to let gold one solid gold Rolex bubbleback and one vintage 1910 Omega single button chronograph & a Patek 3445 white gold..

This watch was produced and sold in 1988 (when I am still in the University) and I will not be able to afford it then.

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Patek Philippe

2011-10-24T13:53:00.003-03:00

After much searching, I have managed to find the PP 3940 with the early 2nd generation dial. This 3940 has been discontinued and it is the most quitessential expression of pure elegance, with 'grand complication.' those complications you rely on daily and A delightful Moonphase watch! Even though it's only 36mm diameter, with the slim movement, the watch rest nicely on the wrist and it is always a joy to wear it!

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Patek 3940: 3 generation of dials?

2011-10-24T13:37:00.002-03:00

First generation (1985-6)

Second generation (1987 - 1990?)

Third generation (1991- 2005?)

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Pp 3940

2011-10-22T09:27:00.002-03:00

The PP 3940 is of course the first modern and most iconic Patek perpetual, launched in 1985, and based on the ultra-slim cal. 240 (it is 2.4 mm high) developed in the seventies. It was discontinued in 2006. From the nos of times i am mentioning, you will know that i Can't stop thinking of 3940

I was originally eyeing on the Rolex 8171..This Pp 3940 is the watch that has the honor of being worn by the President of France, Nicolas Sarkozy. Patek Philippe retains its value far beyond your purchase date so you need not worry about investing in one. Even though the style is not the most trendy watch, it is one of the classic ..together with the 2526 and others in the Patek Philippe collection, transcend style eras.

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PP 3940

2011-10-21T00:26:00.002-03:00

Looks so elegance. The Patek Philippe 3940 features a perpetual calendar with moon phase, day and date functions, as well as programming for leap years. It is powered by a self-winding movement housed within a 36 mm case that is available in platinum, 18kt yellow gold, rose gold, or white gold.

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Patek 3940 dream

2011-10-20T13:58:00.002-03:00

I have always love the moon phase watches. During the course of my collection of Patek vintage watches, one watch has captured my attention, the Patek 3940 perpetual calendar moon phase watch. Even though it's a complication watch, it stil has he distinctive gentlemen watch look... Hope I can save enough money to get one soon!

The Patek 3940 was later replaced by 5140 and In particular the diameter of the case grew to 37mm, and they changed the bezel from a concave bezel to a convex [domed] bezel but have kept the Caliber 240Q movement.

3940, side by side with the Patek Philippe 5140.

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Steve McQueen wearing vintage sub with John Wayne

2011-09-14T12:24:00.001-03:00

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Patek 2552

2011-08-12T14:39:00.001-03:00

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Location:Check-in,Kloten,Switzerland

Patek 2526

2011-08-12T14:34:00.001-03:00

For those who is keen to look for a Patek 2526. Prices dependent on conditions and type of dial..

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Location:Check-in,Kloten,Switzerland

My dream watch

2011-08-10T13:55:00.001-03:00

Trying to overcome my jet lag, I try to keep myself busy..my dream watches are definitely the Patek 3448, Rolex 5510, 8171, 6062..

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Location:Seefeldstrasse,Zurich,Switzerland

Rolex 5508

2011-07-23T12:49:00.001-03:00

Rolex center called me and told me that they could not service my vintage 1958 5508 as they no longer carry spare parts. How sad! Luckily, the watch is in very good condition.. : )

This 5508 has often been loosely called James Bond as Sean Connery was sen wearing the Rolex sub during the early years.

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Location:Princess Margaret Road Link,,Hong Kong

Czech vintage watches

2011-07-14T14:48:00.002-03:00

In Czech, the hunt for watches began! Managed to find one vintage Lemania military watch made for the Czech pilot during WW ll and a SUB Glashutte ( German watch)..

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Location:Radlická,Prague 5,Czech Republic

Vintage Rolex porcelain dial

2011-07-13T16:43:00.002-03:00

This is a vintage 1910s silver case Rolex trench watch. The porcelain dial has managed to keep the dial looking fresh and new. The disadvantage of course is the fear of cracking dial owing to strong impact.

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Location:Kováků,Prague 5,Czech Republic

Letter from Sean Connery 007 to Apple

2011-07-11T15:51:00.000-03:00

BTW.its a fake letter from the net...

Trip to Switzerland

2011-07-11T15:49:00.000-03:00

Sorry for no post lately as I am traveling in Switzerland...

Vintage steel Rolex

2011-06-26T10:41:00.001-03:00

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Location:Gilstead Rd,,Singapore

Sports models

2011-06-26T10:36:00.001-03:00

Tudor ranger & Explorer 1

Collection of submariners

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Vintage Breguet type xx

2011-06-26T10:34:00.001-03:00

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Vintage submariner ad

2011-06-24T10:59:00.001-03:00

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Stars love watches

2011-06-24T10:56:00.001-03:00

Robert Redford wearing 1680

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Happy Patek reunion 09/90, 3433, 2552, 2526, 3445

2011-06-22T10:14:00.005-03:00

This evening, I have decided to take a family photo of the PPs. Despite having the similar movements for the 2552 and the 2526, the 2526 seems to be fatter. My friend has asked me why I love all these old vintage items and the reason is very simple.

My grand parents were poor migrants from Hainan island and my dad has completed his University education via government scholarship. As such during the 1950s-60s where housing was key, the priority will never be in these luxury items, which are not basic necessities. They have made a living from hardwork and I am grateful!

With the improve livelihood, my generation are able to afford some of these luxury, which is a real blessings! I am so glad that these watches have been well taken care by their previous owners. Hopefully, these watches can be part of my family heirloom that can be passed down from one generation after the other. I really like Patek's slogan as you never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation. How true!

The joy of finding these beauties are beyond words. The reading and research, the hunt and the bargain... What a wonderful world!

Patek Rectangular using 09/90 movement
PP 2526 using 12-600AT First generation automatc movement (Enemal dial)
PP2552 using 12-600 AT First generation automatic movement (flying saucer)
PP3433 using 27-460 Second generation automatic movement
PP 3445 using 27-460 Second generation automatic movement (with date)
PP3940 using Cal 240Q (Auromatic Perpetual calendar)

One day, the Patek moonphase 3940 & 3448 shall join the Patek family...soon!

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Location:Princess Margaret Road Link,,Hong Kong

Patek 2526 dial types

2011-06-21T02:55:00.001-03:00

Patek automatic movement: First (12-600AT) versus second (27-460) generation

2011-06-21T02:50:00.003-03:00

The 12-600AT and 27-460 are the two best automatic movement with 18k automatic rotors. From the design point of view, the first generation using 12-600 calibre is the most beautiful movement.

27-460 (Second generation movement)

专家根据目前的市场情况，我们推荐的有收藏价值的手表

2011-06-20T22:43:00.000-03:00

专家根据目前的市场情况，我们推荐的有收藏价值的手表 :

1912年摩凡陀生产“polypian”手表

　　1927年浪琴生产“Lindbergh hourangle”手表

　　1928年劳力士“prince”推出医用表

　　1935年高路云生产“curvex”手表

　　1936年宇宙推出“compax”计时表

　　1948年欧米茄推出“seamaster”手表

　　1953年百达翡丽推出“ref.2526”自动手表

　　1954年宝玑推出“type xx”手表

　　1955年上海手表厂推出17钻手表

　　1970年劳力士推出“ref.6239”计时码表

　　1972年江诗丹顿推出“1972”手表

　　1972年爱彼推出“royal oak”手表

如何判断收藏古董手表的价值

2011-06-20T22:40:00.000-03:00

收藏古董手表，不能和“收集”混为一谈，收集只是玩玩而已，乐在其中即可；但收藏可是要强调专业、严肃、需要足够的资金筹码并须从长计议。

　　古董手表不是越古老的就越好、越值钱，决定古董手表的身价的主要因素有四： 1.数量 2.年代〈历史的价值〉 3.艺术的表达能力〈艺术的价值〉 4.市场的流通价值〈拍卖行情〉。兹分别阐述如下：

　　1. 数量：a.原创稀有性 b.存世量。

　　2. 年代：a.历史原创的价值 b.典故的价值。

　　3. 艺术表达能力：a.时代经典美学（代表性） b.复杂功能的工艺（独特性、复杂性） c.创新与风格〈开创性〉

　　4. 市场的流通价值：品牌是否具有足够的收藏名声及份量，能变成“流行”的古董，活跃流通于拍卖市场。

　　这其中，又以“艺术的表达能力”最为关键重要。好的古董手表应该具备艺术的表达能力，也就是能凸显某家表厂在某个年代的原创性、独特性与代表性，或者有足够的故事张力及高度口碑的收藏名声。

　　自古以来，“艺术的表达能力”最能由各大品牌的经典表款看出端倪，经典的表款具备原创的造型、原创的自制机芯、简约、精致、流行内涵等等；手表史中最著名的名家杰作有：百达翡丽的Calatrava、劳力士的Oyster、欧米茄的Constellation、积家的Reverso、卡地亚的Tank 、爱彼的Royal Oak.……这些经典手表，拥有自己的独特气质（含制表技艺、创意、人文思维、历史典故），才会让人记忆深刻，印象永恒，也才能永远地流行，并经常被表厂拿来当作“摇钱树”再度出品复刻版表款。

　　至于市场的流通价值，可是门大学问。玩家要细心观察世界主流拍卖会（佳士得、苏富比、等）在全球主要城市的拍卖行情，并分析其历年来行情起伏脉络，潮起潮落。拍卖市场就如同股票市场，古董手表炒高、涨高了，也是会有泡沫化的回跌风险。例如，老P.P.的2526，在5、6年前仅值约15万人民币左右，现今拍卖行情则升至25万左右。老P.P.的3445，以前值6-8万元上下，如今已达12-15万。老P.P.的3448万年历月相表，5年前约50-60万，去年初达到100万后，现行情回落至80万元行情。因此，收藏古董手表，心态要正常，以自己的闲钱长线投资，并纯为喜欢它才收藏它。千万不要有盲从、无知、见涨就追的投机心理。要知道，收藏古董手表只是条路径，藉由收藏过程，去探讨钟表历史的奥秘，品味工艺美学的非凡魅力，才是收藏的最高境界及意义。并且，值得收藏的不一定会增值，而会增值的表你又不一定看上眼或买得起。至于值得收藏又会增值的好表很难捉摸，即使捉摸到了，真爱手表的你又舍得脱手获利吗？

　　此外，古董手表是一种奢侈品，机件老化、劣化、防水性、防撞性能也较现代表差，配戴要小心、保养收藏要更费心，并且买卖之间中介佣金高达成交价的百分之20以上。这些都需要为持有付出相当可观的成本和代价。由此可知，收藏手表其实还蛮累人的，无论“胆识”、“专业”、“财力”、“耐性”、“时机”缺一不可。

Source:
http://shoucang.dahe.cn/scxw/tzfx/t20110108_1837131.html

Vintage Patek Philippe 2526 自动表之王的百达翡丽2526

2011-06-20T08:14:00.003-03:00

My love for vintage Patek continues to gather momentum. With the low interest rates from the bank, I have decided to divest my investment into this beautiful PP 2526 from the 1950s. One important reason for my love of pp is it's policy of honoring their vintage timepieces and their clear records of watches sold. Rolex, on the other hand, has no respect for their vintage timepieces, which is really sad!

Initially, I have no intention to get the 2526. When my Sihang Henry requested me to keep a look out for the rare 2526, I began to set my eyes into it. Owing to the porcelain dial, the challenge in the search is to find one in pristine condition with no hair line cracks on the dial.

I have gone through the auction fatalities in 2010 and till May 2011, I have yet to see one appearing. With the opportunity to buy from collector and without the need to pay for the buyer's premium, the 2526 is a bargain... : )

饱满流畅的表壳，平和内敛，尖剑型的时分针，简洁的捧状小时刻度，精细的珠点状秒圈带着点点的宛约。更特别的是那象牙色的瓷面！当然，这是一只PP。

这，就是百多年腕表历史上被公认为自动表之王的百达翡丽2526，很多人也许无法想象，这只最简单小三针的自动表价值等闲过30万，而罕有的铂金版更是过百万! 1953年，PP研发出品牌历史上首款自动机芯12-600AT，这款30石，19800摆/小时的机芯有着整片18K黄金雕花而成的极美丽自动陀，这款机芯的出现比起瑞士最早的自动机芯晚了近20年，但正因PP那求完美，创造机芯艺术品的态度，成就了这自动机芯之王而这机芯在生产7年后停产，总产量只有7100枚，而作为PP第一款自动表的2526，据说总产量只有580只！还有重要一点2526大多是瓷面！完美的机芯，堂皇而内敛的造型，珍罕的瓷面加上稀少的产量，那2526的高价也就容易理解了。

Source: http://modern.dayoo.com/gb/content/2006-11/01/content_2698486.htm

With the rare double "p" winding crown.

2526 together with my 2552, 3433, 3445...all simple design

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Location:Princess Margaret Road Link,,Hong Kong

Patek 2526 米白色珐琅盘

2011-06-20T01:18:00.003-03:00

簡介：男裝錶；18k黃金製造；Cal. 12'"-600 AT自動上鍊機芯，附日內瓦優質印記；30石；時、分、小三針(秒)顯示；象牙白色琺瑯錶面，金色立體石鑿形小時刻度(圖一至圖七)及金色立體寶璣式數目字刻度(圖八及圖九)，金色dauphine劍形時分針；圓型錶身；水晶膠鏡面；旋入式半球體密底蓋；錶徑35.5mm，厚12mm；有防水功能；黑色鱷魚皮錶帶，連原廠18k黃金針扣；1953年生產，同年首次出售；百達翡麗總共生產了580枚2526系列腕錶，當中18k黃金佔480枚，18k玫瑰金佔50枚，18k白金佔30枚，鉑金佔20枚；大部份2526系列腕錶都是象牙白色錶面，只有極少數是黑色琺瑯錶盤。

短評：琺瑯(enamel)又名搪瓷(porcelain)，是覆蓋於金屬製品表面的一種玻璃質物料，主要成份是矽酸鹽化合物。由於琺瑯有不易氧化的特點，只要保養得宜，就算經歷數代，表面色澤仍能保持溫潤細緻，恆久常新，因此早在懷錶年代，琺瑯已被用作製造鐘錶面盤。琺瑯錶盤製作工序極度繁複，生產過程非常耗時，半製成品失敗率接近50%，加上需要全人手製作，富經驗的琺瑯錶盤工匠卻買少見少，根本無法適應近代手錶大量製造的生產模式。雖然近年已甚少錶廠生產琺瑯錶盤，百達翡麗為保存這種極富傳統的製錶工藝，現今仍有維持常規琺瑯手錶的生產。1952年，百達翡麗研製出首枚自動上鍊機芯12'"-600 AT，而2526系列就是首個成功裝嵌(1953年)這枚機芯的腕錶，難怪手錶收藏家對該系列腕錶特別另眼相看！2526系列手錶的估值差別頗大，稀有的寶璣式數目字刻度(製作難度更高)較最常見的石鑿形刻度貴超過一倍，但估值仍不及極罕有的混合式刻度(寶璣字3,6,12加石鑿形)及鑽石刻度系列，反而同樣產量不多的螢光物料刻度(較後期金屬錶盤)版本，估值卻不高；此外，產量較少的玫瑰金、白金及鉑金2526系列，估值較最常見的黃金版本貴一倍以上；極富收藏價值的黑色琺瑯錶盤，估值較象牙白色版本高接近兩倍！如果手錶附加原廠金屬錶帶，更有助提升估值。由於琺瑯錶盤容易因保養不善(主要是碰撞及極端環境造成)而出現極幼細的裂痕(髮裂)、凹陷及變色等情況，如果手錶出現上述問題，腕錶價值將會大跌，甚至乎會出現無人問津的情況，因此放大鏡是買入琺瑯製錶面手錶的重要工具，大家購入前，請緊記仔細觀察琺瑯錶面的狀態。2526系列於1960年停產，由另一經典琺瑯錶面腕錶3428系列所取代。近年2526系列頗受手錶收藏家歡迎，經常有出人意表的拍賣成績，但基於該系列腕錶質素頗為參差，拍賣成交價的波幅極大，因此投資者應避免高價追入(超過港幣50萬元)2526系列各類罕有款式，反而只要拍賣估值低於港幣20萬元，該系列最常見的18k黃金石鑿形刻度象牙白琺瑯錶面款式(質素要良好)，最值得投資者買入作長線持有。

二手估值(石鑿形刻度，18k黃金)：HK$160,000-$200,000 (2010年4月25日)

二手估值(寶璣字刻度，18k黃金)：HK$440,000-$550,000 (2010年4月25日)

二手估值(黑色琺瑯面，18k黃金)：HK$560,000-$700,000 (2010年4月25日)

Source:
http://hk.myblog.yahoo.com/patek-philippe/article?mid=1105&fid=-1&action=prev

Patek 2526

2011-06-16T10:37:00.003-03:00

The Patek ref 2526 is one of the most desirable Patek. The scarce Patek Philippe 18K gold reference 2526 is a vintage automatic wrist watch with rare porcelain enamel dial produced circa 1950s.

This is the first self-winding wristwatch made by Patek Philippe and was produced in only 580 pieces, including yellow, pink and white gold and platinum. The dial with applied gold markers and gold hands, the signature and minute markers in gold enamel. The reference 2526 is the only Patek wrist watch with a porcelain enamel dial, and not all of this reference number have enamel dials. Calibre 12-600AT rhodium 30 jewel 8 adjustment movement with 18K gold rotor in heavy screwback case. A handsome and rare watch in particularly fine condition.

Depending upon the metal, condition, and dial variation the value of 2526 can range from $15,000 up to $200,000. The watch in 18k yellow ranges from $15,000. to $45,000. The most important factor that affects the value is the porcelain dial. Porcelain is a fragile material, and it has the possibility of cracking if it is mishandled which typically occurs when a watchmaker/butcher gets to the watch. A cracked dial decreases the value of the watch by 40 to 50% which is scary because sometimes it is very difficult to see a hairline even with a 10 power loupe. The next valuation factor is based upon the case condition which are typically very good to excellent with this model. However, sometimes these cases are over polished losing hallmarks and the original form of the watch which could affect the value by 30 to 40%.

There were different series made of the 2526 and the slight variations exists in the porcelain dial. The early generation dial is the most sought-after which can be determined by a small dimple that is noticeable underneath the baton markers. One the later series, the dial markers lay flat on the dial with no dimples underneath. Typically the early generation dial is worth about 10 to 15% more, but I have observed in auctions lately collectors are looking for flawless dials and similar prices have been relised for both dial types.

Overall, the Patek Philippe 2526 has a great case design, a technical movement, historical importance, and was produced with beautiful porcelain material. No wonder this model is highly sought-after and has always maintained and appreciated in value.

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Location:Princess Margaret Road Link,,Hong Kong

Patek journey Continues..

2011-06-09T07:40:00.002-03:00

I have started to redefine my vintage watch collection by letting go some other brands of watches and focussed my efforts in vintage Patek. I am glad to be in Hong Kong and Taiwan where there are many Patek connoisseurs. As a result, I am still able to find these 1950s,60s vintage Patek in pristine condition.

Having been a die hard vintage Rolex collector, 2011 is a watershed year where my focus is on the ultimate classic. After acquiring some Rolex Prince, bubbleback, and sports models such as explorer 1, 2, submariner 6536, 5508, red 1680, I suddenly have the urge to go for the smaller and thinner in size classic dress watches.

With the Mainland Chinese collectors coming on board the vintage watch scene soon, prices will sure escalates upward.

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Swiss Watch Trust vintage & rare timepieces auction 3 Sept 2011' Hong Kong

2011-06-09T07:38:00.001-03:00

Ritz Carlton hotel
Preview: 1-2 Sept 2011
Auction: 3 Sept 2011

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Patek 1950s price historical value and now

2011-05-30T23:27:00.000-03:00

In 2010, the relative worth of $800.00 from 1955 is:

$6,510.00 using the Consumer Price Index
$5,340.00 using the GDP deflator
$8,470.00 using the unskilled wage
$10,500.00 using the Production Worker Compensation
$15,100.00 using the nominal GDP per capita
$28,300.00 using the relative share of GDP

Patek 3445 white gold with date

2011-05-30T13:12:00.006-03:00

With the help of Candy, I have managed to find a Patek White gold 3445 with date in very good condition. The 3445 was produced from 1961-1981 in solid yellow and white gold. Since I already have the 2552 and 3433 in yellow gold, it become natural for me wanting to find a white gold. The simple design is really timeless and nice. This is the second auto movement produced by Patek and is also one of the most beautiful rotor Patek ever built.

History of famous company Patek Philippe began 160 years back, in 1839, when to Geneva officer of the Polish cavalry Antoni Norbert Patek arrived Philip de Pravdzhich, taking part in a revolt during occupation of Bel'vederskogo of palace in Warsaw. Since it was cruelly low-spirited, Patek Philip, as well as thousands of other Poland, rescued from pursuit, was forced to abandon Motherland. Some time he gets a lesson describe vividly for the known landscape-painter A. Kalama, and then carries with horology. Teaming up with other Polish emigrant - watch-maker Fransua Chapekom, Patek Philip registers a sentinel firm, the task of which consisted of that, to survive in a cutthroat competition with other Swiss brands which by that time already were the acknowledged authorities of business sentinel. A young company spares basic attention a design: partners buy for the best producers mechanisms and place them in own corps. In 1845 Chapek walks away from businesses, and Antuan de Patek as a result of searches of new partner meets with Adrienom Filipppom - by the talented French watch-maker, which a revolutionary on sentinel business invention - development of mechanism, led unassisted key belonged to. Partners swore to devote the lives “creation only of the best and dear clock”. Since exclusive design, dear materials, perfection and exactness of the most difficult mechanism, collected by hand, all and singular distinguishes clock of legendary firm Patek Philippe. Exactly combination of these undeniable dignities overmastered the hearts of famous clients of Patek Philippe. In the number of first were Queen Victoria and Prince Albert, in future Patek Philippe became the possessors of clock more than 30 reigning monarchs and four chapters of Roman Catholic Church. At different times works of sentinel and jewelers art of Patek Philippe were owned And. Einstein, Vagner, м. of Curie, Kipling, Sh. Bronte.
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Location:Princess Margaret Road Link,,Hong Kong

Patek family

2011-05-30T13:12:00.004-03:00

The family members of Patek reuniting themselves.

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Vintage Patek 2552 & 3433

2011-05-24T08:14:00.003-03:00

These are my 3 little vintage pp using the 09/90 movement and the first generation and second generation automatic movements. Vintage pp is a class of it's own. With many giant size watches around, these classic watches are timeless in design.
In addition, what made these watches different from the current Patek is the watch dial ( known as "Siew Ching" in cantonese means burn porcelain). In closer examination, you can see a layer of light lacquer like coating on the dial which helps to keep the dialing perfect shape for many years.

Ref 3433 & 2552

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Explored data from the net

2011-05-19T07:37:00.001-03:00

The Rolex Explorer

The watch that witnessed the first ascent of the world's highest peak, Mt. Everest, is the Rolex Explorer. Even today, this watch is one of the most widely sought after Rolex models. In addition, its successor--the Rolex Explorer II--has done very well in its own right in light of its improved functionalities.

Currently, Rolex offers a 36mm sized case Explorer in steel. This model features a polished bezel, Oysterlock bracelet and a black dial engraved with numerals 3, 6, and 9. It is known for its high visibility dial, an extremely strong case, and the ability to withstand temperatures from -20 degree to +40 degree Celsius.

History of Rolex Explorer

The Rolex Explorer was designed to suit the extreme conditions of a variety of different expeditions. It is evident from the fact that the two prototypes of the Explorer, numbered 6098 and 6150, were given to the members of the British Himalayas expedition team on May 29 in 1953, when they set out to conquer Mt. Everest's 29,035 ft. The soon to be released Explorer, model 6098, was given to the expedition member Tenzing Norgay, and it performed without fail. The name “Explorer” was adopted for the model after the widely publicized success of the expedition.

Initial Design

An attribute that makes the Rolex Explorer one of the most recognizable models is its dial. The earliest Explorer, model 6098, featured a white dial with arrow-shaped hour markers and hands while model 6150 looked exceptionally distinct with its black “Quarter Arabic” dial with only the 3-6-9 marked with numerals. In addition, it featured large Mercedes style hands. Later, model 6098 (renumbered as the 6298) was equipped with the famous black Quarter Arabic dial, although retaining the arrow shaped hands. The name “Explorer” appeared for the first time on the dial of model 6150 (renumbered as the 6350), positioned just above the numeral 6. In addition, these models used the “big bubbleback 10-1/2” A.296 movement. The early 6350 dials had a honeycombed texture with “Officially Certified Chronometer” signed just above the number 6. However, the popularity of model 6150 overshadowed the look of model 6350. The former was larger than the latter by 2mm and was only available as a precision model.

Essential Changes and Advances Over the Years

Many changes have come about since the inception of the Rolex Explorer. The first major change came in the form of model 6610--which looked almost identical to model 6150. However, it could be recognized by its flatter back due to the new 1030 calibre movement. In addition, its dial bore the sign "Chronometer." In all the new models of Rolex Explorer, the most visible change was a shift from the pencil shaped hands to the more popular Mercedes-style hands of today. By the late 1950s, the dial began to read "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified". In addition, the bottom of the dial bore Swiss T<25 from Swiss. This was done to demonstrate the switch from Radium to Tritium as the luminous material.

Later, Rolex used certain attributes of the Rolex Explorer with a few other models, not easily recognizable as Explorers. For instance, in the late 1950s, Rolex introduced a version of the Air King with model number 5500 which had an Explorer dial. These watches were believed to be targeted at British military officers. This dress watch had a slightly smaller size and featured a 19mm bracelet instead of the 20mm in standard Explorer models. In addition, the dial was marked "Precision" or "Super Precision" above the number 6. Rolex also released the standard Oyster Perpetual in steel or gold with white or black non-Explorer dials. These were signed "Explorer".

One of the most sought after collectible models of the Explorer line has been the Space-Dweller with the model number 1016. The words Space-Dweller were marked clearly on the dial below 12. These watches were produced in limited numbers that were primarily sold in Japan. This decision was on account of the model being introduced in 1963 to commemorate the visit of NASA's Mercury Astronauts to Japan. It featured a new 1560 calibre movement. The second version of the model 1016 was equipped with a "hack" feature in movement. It stops the hand at the 12 position when the winding crown is pulled out to the hand setting position. This makes it easier to synchronize your time with a known source. With a change in movement, Rolex introduced the new Oyster bracelet for its Explorer model, made from solid stainless steel as opposed to the previously folded steel sheet links. This revised form continued until 1989.

A New Explorer Introduced in 1990

At the beginning of 1990, Rolex rolled out a brand new version of the Explorer with model number 14270. This completely redesigned model sported a new movement, case, dial and sapphire crystal. Only the hands and the name were identical to that of model 1016. The attraction of this revised model lies in its white gold skeleton markers with luminous Tritium fillings. It boasts of the very powerful 3000 caliber movement.

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Rolex 5508 submariner

2011-05-18T12:54:00.003-03:00

The Rolex Submariner

The Rolex Submariner is an example of Rolex's commitment to create a special watch that overcomes any national boundary and continues to perform. To this very day, no wristwatch nearly as effective in terms of water resistance has been produced by any other watch company. This model has also been successfully tested in an expedition to Antarctica where it withstood temperatures of -45 degrees Celsius. Many of the early models of Submariner were in fact used in several James Bond movies like "Dr. No," "Live and Let Die," "License to Kill," "The Man with the Golden Gun," and many more. The popularity of this model made it one of Rolex's flagship models.

Early Models of Rolex Submariner

The first prototype Rolex Submariner, known as the "Deep Sea Special," was successfully tested to a depth of 10,336 feet on September 30, 1953. Some of the earliest Submariner versions included model numbers 6200, 6204, and 6205, and these models were put into different categories based on their depth ratings because not every recreational diver needed a watch with a depth rating of 600+ feet.

The model 6200, believed to be the first Rolex diving watch (released in 1953) was powered by the A.296 movement, unlike models 6204 and 6205 which were both fitted with an improved version--the A.260 movement. In addition, the model 6200 featured a bi-directional bezel and a dial that strongly resembled that of Explorer prototypes. Its case was thick and coupled with an over-sized crown. Nowhere was the word Submariner engraved on the watch; rather, the crown was marked with the word "Brevet" under the coronet. The model had a depth rating of 660 feet.

It was the model 6204 that was officially introduced as the first Submariner at the Basel Spring Watch Fair in 1954. It had a depth rating of 600 feet. It also featured a new dial that had round hour markers with rectangles at the 3, 6, and 9 positions. What was special about this model was that it was the first version to carry the name "Submariner" in very small print on the dial. Another model that made its appearance in 1954 was the 6205, almost similar to the 6204--the only difference being that the 6205 was rated to a depth of only 330 feet under water. All these early Submarines used gilt printing on glossy black dials. In addition, Radium paint was used for the luminous indices.

Major Facelifts During the Mid and Late 1950s

The earliest models 6204 and 6205 were renumbered as 6538 and 6536, respectively, in 1955. Along with these changes, other prominent updates included the following:

All these models were marked with "Submariner" in large print (as opposed to the previous smaller print) above the 6.
The new 1030 movement and Mercedes hands were introduced in the model 6536.
The model 6200 received the Mercedes hands in 1955 and was made available with both the standard Submariner dial and the Explorer-styled dial.
A key change came in the form of a redesigned Submariner bezel in 1956. It now started featuring individual minute marks for the first 15 minutes. This gave the watch a unique look. In addition, the triangle positioned on the bezel was painted red. However, these changes did not continue for long as the bezel was redesigned once more--this time featuring squared font numbers and a triangle that was no longer red. Some other notable changes during this period included the addition of a thicker case and a larger Brevet crown. In addition, in 1958 the model 6200, renumbered as the 5510, was fitted with the new 1530 movement.

A New Wave of Submariners in the 1960s

The new wave of Submariners started with a chronometer version--model 5512. Launched in 1959, it was fitted with the 1570 movement and was the first model to feature the crown guard (or shoulder) with squared ends. These shoulders were added as a protective measure for the winding or setting mechanism. By the early 1960s, the crown guards had a more pointed appearance at the ends. Later, in the mid-1960s, the crown guards started looking rounded. Also, the 1560 movement replaced the earlier 1570 movement and the words "Officially Certified Chronometer" appeared on the dial.

Another major Submariner model making its way to market during this time was the 5513, powered by a non-chronometer 1530 movement. The main attribute complementing the 5512 and 5513 models had been their over-sized crown that later became a standard feature of the Submarine line. The model 5513 was worn by Roger Moore in the movie "Live and Let Die," and to this day is the most popular and memorable Submariner.

Another major change was a shift from Radium paint for the luminous indices to the Tritium-infused paint. In addition, Rolex discontinued the use of gilt or silver gilt dials and in their place introduced white printing on the Submarine watches. The chronometer Submariner models were also engraved with the words "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified."

In 1966, Rolex introduced yet another masterpiece: model 1680. It was the first Submariner to be equipped with a date feature. It was a significant development because it transformed the image of the Submariner from a specialist watch to one that could be worn by anyone. The word "Submariner" was painted in red in this model. Also, the bubble-shaped crystal in earlier versions had given way to the thicker yet flatter crystal in this new model. This change allowed the Cyclops magnifying bubble to be positioned over the date aperture.

Early Rolex Submariners for Military Use

The first Rolex Submariner was issued to the British Royal Navy in 1954. It was a version of the model 6204. Later, a version of the 6538 was specially adapted for the British Royal Navy and the Royal Canadian Navy. The most popular version issued to the British Royal Navy had been the model 5513 in the year 1968. What made this special was its large diamond-shaped hour hand; the tip of the second hand had a similar shape. In addition, the letter "T" was engraved inside a circle on the dial, just above the word "Submariner," signifying the switch from Radium to Tritium as the luminous material used on the dial and hands. A model identical to the 5513 had also been designed for the British Royal Marines in 1972. It was numbered 5517. It was different from 5513 only in one aspect--it featured a bezel that had individual minute markings all the way around. In model 5513, the markings were restricted to the first 15 minutes.

All the models described above look quite different from the ones that are available today. This may be the reason why these are the most sought-after vintage models. People are passionate about collecting them, their popularity is not restricted to their profile of a diver's watch, and they sell for very high prices. People also love to collect them because of their stylish, sporty look and the ongoing connection to the legendary James Bond.

Reference 5508 appeared about 1957-58, and this watch is actually the reference 6536, but with the new 5508 reference number. This reference number change was made to evolve all Submariners into 55XX reference numbers starting in the late 1950s... which would last through 1990, when the last 5513 models were last produced. The ref. 5508 was guaranteed waterproof to 100m/330ft and existed with and without the inscription of "Chronometer" on the dial.

I have sent the Rolex 5508 submariner to the Rolex center and is now waiting for the quotation for thorough check and servicing.

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Special dials

2011-05-17T03:40:00.003-03:00

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Rolex bubbleback

2011-05-17T03:40:00.001-03:00

The Rolex Bubbleback

One of my favourite and the most popular Rolex models is the Bubbleback. Launched in 1933, it was also one of the early Rolex models. The creation of this model was a significant event for Rolex because it featured the first Auto-Rotor. The Auto-Rotor signified Rolex's success in developing a self-winding movement. Today, the Bubbleback is one of the most sought after and collectible wristwatches in the world because production was discontinued in the early 1960s.

How Did Rolex Succeed in Creating the Bubbleback?

In the 1920s, numerous watch-making companies were trying to create a self-winding movement. They kept attempting to incorporate slight modifications to Harwood's self-winding watch that featured a no winding stem. However, Rolex was following altogether a different path. It experimented with its existing movements and looked for a new solution to the old challenge. Finally, in 1931, Rolex created the Auto-Rotor movement from an existing Aegler movement (subsidiary seconds Hunter 8-3/4"). This invention resulted in a "perpetual motion" wherein the winding mass could turn smoothly both clockwise and counter-clockwise and pivot a full 360 degrees on its staff in the center of the movement. In 1932, Rolex patented its first successful self-winding perpetual wristwatch. One year later, the Rolex Bubbleback was introduced into the market. Due to unsuccessful attempts in the past and the resulting skepticism in the public eye, Rolex tried to publicize this new model as "the watch sensation of 1934".

The fascinating historical marker is the watch never had "Bubbleback" engraved anywhere on it, and was never officially designated that title. Instead, it bore "Rolex Oyster Perpetual" just below the 12 o'clock position. How did it come to be known as "Bubbleback?" The answer lies in its bubble-shaped, thicker case back. The thick Auto-Rotor led to an over-sized mechanism which needed a thicker case. Another nickname for this model had been "Ovettone," an Italian word meaning "little egg." In Asia, these are called" Koon choi chye".

Notable Changes Introduced Over Time

The first Rolex Bubbleback was the model 1858 powered by the Ref.520 movement. The sweep versions were powered by the Ref.530 movement. The earliest Bubbleback models featured a 3-piece case and a deeper case back. In 1936, Rolex rolled out two new models: 3131 and 3132. Both these models sported a new 2-piece case and new modified movement 9-3/4". The only difference between the models was that while the Model 3131 was powered by the Ref.620 (subsidiary seconds), model 3132 was powered by the Ref.630 (sweep seconds). It is interesting to note that the early Bubbleback watches were the first Rolex models to be made available in the stainless steel material known as Steelium. Some models were also made available in Rolesor (steel and gold combination). The two terms, Steelium and Rolesor, were coined by Rolex and subsequently patented in 1931 and 1933, respectively.

A significant breakthrough took place in 1935 when the Bubbleback models were equipped with a new streamlined balance wheel known as the "Super Balance." This improved the functioning of the Auto-Rotor. Rolex went one step further by marketing its Bubbleback models in three sizes so that they could appeal to men and women alike. In 1941, a ladies Bubbleback model was launched, powered by the Ref.420 movement. However, no sweep version of the model was made available for ladies. Later, in the 1950s, some Bubbleback models--such as model 5018--were introduced featuring "Bombe lugs".

Many other modifications, cosmetically as well as technically, were introduced over time, finally leading to the development of a new Rolex model called the"Big Bubbleback”. The Big Bubbleback led directly to the development of the Rolex Datejust, which eventually became one of the flagship Rolex models.

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Vintage Patek Philippe ref 3433

2011-05-17T03:39:00.002-03:00

As you know, I have always been a fan of vintage Rolex. I first entered the world of vintage Patek in 2002 when I first acquired the rectangular Patek using the famous 09/90 movement.

However, after that, my momentum stopped. Following my acquisition of my second Patek Philippe Ref 2522 (from the 1950s) using the first generation automatic last week, I have been totally addicted with the world of Patek. It is interesting to note that this watch is considered "big" (at 35mm) during the 1950s since most watches then were 30 - 33mm in size. The modern watches are now very big at 40-45mm making these watches looked small. Nevertheless, these classic designed watch really looked elegant and timeless..

Having found the first auto movement, i have set myself the mission to search for the second. The second generation Patek movement is the 27-460M movement and I was lucky to have found the ref 3433 (from 1962) in near mint condition together with the Patek achieve paper.

Originally, my thought was to go for the Ref 3445 Patek with a date function. However, I was told that the ref 2522 is a much rarer find as it was still using the special "lacquered" dial that has a shine and dial that will not get tarnished or getting spotted.

To get the Patek in such a short time, I have to let go some of my precious hifi gears... : (

I am looking forward to my 4th Patek, the ref 3445 with date and hopefully, find one in white instead of yellow gold. The search is on... : )
Photos of my dream watch

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Patek 09/90 movements

2011-05-11T12:44:00.001-03:00

This was my first Patek bought in 2002 from Taiwan. It has a rare rectangular 09/90 movement and makers in diamonds.

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Location:Princess Margaret Road Link,,Hong Kong